PMR - High Altitude - My trip to Bolivia - PMRGCAuk

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PMR - High Altitude - My trip to Bolivia

Gimme profile image
26 Replies

Well, I survived my birding trip to Bolivia! Thank you for your support before I went away, when I was having a wobble about the health insurance. Apologies that I did not acknowledge some of your comments, as I was already on my journey. Anyway, nothing terrible happened and, in fact, I feel more well than I have done in 2 or 3 years. I increased my pred from 5mg to 6mg about 10 days before I went to help me get through it, so I am not sure if it is the increased dose, or the fresh air, sunshine, extra walking, and doing something that I love for 3 weeks that has contributed to my current sense of wellbeing. Plus, I have lost a few lbs while I was away, as I always do at high altitude, and I am close to my pre pred weight again.

Anyway, the reason for the post is that several people have asked about the effects of altitude with PMR over the last few months and I promised to report back on my return. A disclaimer that the following are my comments on my own observations in my specific case. For anyone, planning a trip at high altitude with an existing medical condition, I would always advise them to clear it with their doctor beforehand to make sure they were not at risk and are fit to travel, at the very least as it might invalidate any medical insurance, if you do not.

For context, I am 65 and have suffered some kind of polymyalgia on and off for around 20 years. Diagnosed PMR Nov 2022, began pred at 15mg in Feb 2023, stiffness, pain on moving and fatigue all currently fully controlled on 6mg of pred. I am also asthmatic and significantly over weight. Before the polymyalgia kicked off, I was slim, fit and did several high altitude treks in the Himalaya and Andes, so I have something to compare with. I have done the Everest trail and walked to almost 18,000 ft, the Gosainkund trek to around 15,000 ft, the Jomsom trek, trekked in the Kathmandu valley, Singali La trek at 12,200 ft, and the Inca trail into Machu Picchu, walking to 14,600 ft (apologies for lack of metrication).

The above treks were more than 15 years ago, and although the holiday was vehicle based and not trekking, I was still more than a little apprehensive about how high altitude would affect my PMR, especially because of the extra weight that I am carrying and that it has exacerbated my asthma. And most significantly, I am older. This is a trip that I wanted to do for some years, delayed by the pandemic, and I decided to go for it anyway, since I am not getting younger and my current state of health and fitness may be as good as it gets from now on. Walking and birding are my lifelong loves. So, I just did it!

I went to Bolivia with a very well respected British travel company, who specialise in wildlife adventure holidays, in a group of 9 of us with a birding guide and a driver. It was essentially two holidays run back to back; 9 days in the (so-called) Lowlands (Amazon basin) and 10 days in the Highlands (Andes). Bolivia is an amazing country; fantastic scenery, delightful people and the most amazing birdlife and other nature. The trip was vehicle based, staying in hotels and days out were long with driving in between various birding sites.

Regardless of medical condition, survival at high altitude is entirely dependent on the level to which you are acclimatised. Being out of puff with increased elevation is entirely normal and you soon adjust and should not be confused with Acute Mountain Sickness, which can be fatal if you do not head down when symptoms appear, which is typically around 8-12 hours after passing an individual's acclimatisation limit. Hence, the need to go up slowly to allow time for your body to adjust. The usual recommendation is after 10,000 ft, to sleep at no more than an extra 1,000ft each day, and to walk high and sleep low, since illness usually comes on overnight if you are too high. Excursions to higher levels during the day help acclimatisation. Most people in good health will be fine up to 10K. Acclimatisation rate is independent of age and level of fitness, and is completely unpredictable amongst individuals. Although it is generally acknowledged that tolerance of altitude will reduce with age.

I hadn’t fully appreciated beforehand how well my trip had been designed for acclimatisation. In the first week, we spent 2 nights at 1100m (3,600 ft) and 3 nights at 3300m (10,800 ft). In the highlands, we were at 2,600m (8,500 ft) and 5 nights at 3,600m (12,000 ft) in La Paz. On all legs of the journey, we spent some of each day higher than the level at which we slept with one day out that took us up to a high level pass at 18,000 ft.

So, how did I get on? I would say that my PMR hardly affected my ability to tolerate altitude and I am certain that the altitude did not worsen my PMR, in any way. I do not know if GCA would be affected, as I do not have this atm, that I am aware of. I did suffer some dizziness and some headache when we went up to the summit and my breathing was poor on exertion on the higher level days, although it was clear that I was acclimatising well towards the end of the trip and my breathing was improving greatly. I would say that I was much more impacted by the fact that I am overweight, which has a knock-on effect for my asthma. Certainly, losing a few lbs over the span of the journey seemed to also help. If you allow for that, I would conclude that I probably needed a bit more acclimatisation time to allow for my increased age, but the PMR did not prevent me from completing the trip safely. I experienced no increase in muscular stiffness or pain and 6mg of pred kept me pain free. I did have some problems with my knees, which I have had on and off on pred, and it seems to be soft tissue (not bone). They were fine in weight bearing but got a bit ouchie if I unintentionally twisted my knees slightly when walking, but using trekking poles as a bit of extra support helped me to carry on as normal. My knees are a bit funny anyway and I am suspecting that the pred has softened up the ligaments and tendons.

Birding walks were anything up to 1 or 2 hours and then driving in between sites. I did wonder if the sitting in the vehicle for long periods would be an issue, but I negotiated a seat where I could stretch my legs, which helped. I probably walked around 5-7 miles on some days day, divided up through the day, which is a lot more than I have managed over the last couple of years. I did need to sit out some of the walking by taking a rest in the bus, on occasions, but I am still amazed at how well I managed to keep up, in spite of health issues, and I didn’t miss any birds.

Beforehand, my biggest concern was how I would cope with the fatigue that I had been experiencing, especially as I normally have been sleeping for a couple of hours every afternoon and probably get 10-11 hours sleep in total each day.. They were long days. We were getting up at 4.30 am most days and I was in bed again by 8.30 pm, with very little spare time, except for meal times. I had planned to take days off if I needed them, but I only missed a couple of pre breakfast birding sessions, and on 2 or 3 days, I took a nap on the back seat of the bus during the after lunch birding session. Of course, there was also time for napping when the bus was on the move.

An unexpected bonus was that my neck is completely free of pain and stiffness now, the only difference being that I haven't used the computer for 3 weeks, so I need to be a bit more careful about that going forward.

Overall, I am very pleased with how well I did. I would say that the biggest challenge for anyone doing this kind of trip would be whether the PMR will allow you to do the fitness prep that would enable you to build the stamina to get through. I did little walking before I went, although I was swimming as much as possible to try and build my stamina. I can’t say that I didn’t get tired and perhaps a little grumpy, at times, but I think chubbiness and asthma were bigger handicaps than the PMR, helped by 6mg pred. Since I have been back, I have been catching up on missed sleep, but even so, I feel much fitter and very well, certainly a lot happier and I feel like I have rediscovered my zest for life. It has made me reflect on how much PMR has taken over my life, and going forward, the need to make time and energy for my passions.

Apologies if this is a bit long. I’ve tried to limit it to the impact on health to stay on topic and I hope that someone will find the information useful and maybe encouragement to push your envelope a little. I’m still processing my photos and I have asked if I can share them in the FB gardening group, so that I can talk more about the actual holiday.

P.S. An old post came up beside this and reminded me of something. The lowlands were very hot and humid at the beginning and I remember feeling quite tired and achy right at the beginning of the trip. I improved as we went higher and the temperature and humidity reduced and I am not sure if the better climate was helping or because I was slowly getting fitter. Though I think I might be one of those people whose PMR is aggravated by heat and humidity. In this country, I definitely feel better in the winter than in the summer.

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Gimme profile image
Gimme
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26 Replies
Hoofprints profile image
Hoofprints

That sounds like an amazing adventure as well as an off-label prescription for better health! Well done for having the courage to test the waters. So glad you benefitted and it's a bit if hope for all of us that when our autoimmune conditions are well managed, we might can a little again 🤞🏻

DorsetLady profile image
DorsetLadyPMRGCAuk volunteer

Thanks for updating - sound as if you had a fantastic time…well done 😊

PMRpro profile image
PMRproAmbassador

Well done - and so pleased you were able to really enjoy it.

Gimme profile image
Gimme in reply toPMRpro

Thank you. Had a fantastic time! It has done me a power of good. :)

PMRpro profile image
PMRproAmbassador in reply toGimme

I can believe it

Charlie1boy profile image
Charlie1boy

Thank you for posting your story. For me, it made a really interesting read. Think you have done really well.

Congratulations.

Koalajane profile image
Koalajane

well done and so pleased you enjoyed your trip and didn’t let PMR rule your life

Hulotsholiday profile image
Hulotsholiday

Thanks for posting your experiences and insights. Enjoyed reading about your adventures

piglette profile image
piglette

I went to Mexico City and was fine while someone with me who was a smoker (no PMR) had a lot of difficulty.

Highlandtiger profile image
Highlandtiger

Glad you had a fabulous time. I went to Bolivia some years ago before doing the Inca Trail in Peru and loved it as a country. La Paz was absolutely fascinating and unlike any other city I’d previously been to.

SheffieldJane profile image
SheffieldJane

Thank you for the uplifting account of your trip. You were brave to do it and it sounds like it paid off. We must never underestimate the healing effects of sheer joy, and meeting a challenge.

Gimme profile image
Gimme in reply toSheffieldJane

It was definitely healing. Even though it was also very tiring and I got a bit raggy around the edges a few times. It took quite a bit of mental determination to keep going, but I always think that is where the healing comes from. Being able to achieve something difficult is usually very satisfying. All I have to do now is to hang onto the extra fitness that I acquired and get back to walking regularly again.

diana1998 profile image
diana1998

Brilliant interesting reporting. Well done, very brave and a great achievement!

Janet57 profile image
Janet57

What an incredible trip and I am so glad you were able to enjoy it. Your whole post is very relevant to me as I’m planning a trip to Machu Picchu next March. It’s an 8 day Andean Tour followed by a 16 day cruise with very little walking but still at altitude. Many moons ago I skied at high altitude but that was well before PMR when I was fitter and not overweight either. Your information has spurred me on with my weight loss and fitness plan which has trailed off recently. We do get some acclimatisation so that should help. Your trip sounds like a marvellous adventure and I’m hoping mine will be too.

Gimme profile image
Gimme in reply toJanet57

You will have a wonderful time, I am sure. Good Tour Operators should take into account that most people are going to be coming straight from sea level, which effectively most of Great Britain is. Before I went, I hadn't twigged that even the lowlands part of my trip was already in the Andean foothills, so the acclimatisation began then.

See my comments below to Tiggy, as that may reassure you about Machu Picchu. It is a magical place. I stayed in Aguas Calientes for a couple of nights and caught the first bus up from the town, spending the whole day there. I walked up to the sun gate for the sun rise and most people leave to get the train back to Cuzco about 1.00 pm, so I had the place to myself in the afternoon. The site is vast, which you don't fully appreciate until you are there. Lots to see. There is a really good paperback guide book you can buy online, so that you can make sure you don't miss anything.

Janet57 profile image
Janet57 in reply toGimme

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply and for the really useful information. I’m certainly looking forward to the trip. 😊

Stills profile image
Stills

Useful post thank you

Tiggy70 profile image
Tiggy70

So pleased that your holiday went well and you have made some wonderful memories. My OH and I love adventure/wildlife holidays but I haven’t felt well enough to tackle one since diagnosed with PMR 3 years ago. We were due to go on a visit to South Africa including a trip to the Victoria falls in October 2020 but Covid scuppered that. Unfortunately I get very bad altitude sickness around 8,000 feet so will never be able to go to Machu Pichu. Well done, 🦜🦅🦉

Gimme profile image
Gimme in reply toTiggy70

Do you always get altitude sickness at that height? Do you go straight to that height, or is that after a gradual ascent? You might just need more time to acclimatise. If it is any consolation, Edmund Hilary was unable to manage going above that height for about the last 20 years of his life, I believe.

If that is your absolute limit, logistically it would be difficult for you to visit machu picchu. It's not impossible, because machu picchu is a lot lower than Cuzco and is just under 8,000 ft, but Aguas Calientes (the town below the citadel) is a lot lower and you could stay overnight there. The difficulty is that Cuzco is at 12,000 ft, so the only way to do it would be to go from the airport in Cuzco directly to the railway station at the bottom and catch the train directly to Aguas Calientes. A couple of nights there to acclimatise, might mean that you could manage to catch the bus and spend just the day time at machu picchu?

Tiggy70 profile image
Tiggy70 in reply toGimme

Thanks for your reply. I was first aware of my altitude sickness when travelling to Equador a few years ago. We had 2 nights in Quito which is around 9,300 ft. As soon as we went lower and onto the Amazon I greatly improved. We went back to Quito for a couple of nights before flying on to the Galápagos Islands and the sickness returned. Since then I have had other experiences of altitude sickness whilst in the US. Anything above 8,000 feet and it starts. It’s good that I have something in common with Edmund Hilary😂

Dochaz profile image
Dochaz

Inspirational! Thank you for sharing your experience and looking forward to seeing your photos on the FB gardening group ❤️

PMRCanada profile image
PMRCanada

Welcome back! Glad to hear you had a good time during your adventure. Thank you for sharing some details of your trip which will be of benefit to others who are considering a similar journey. It is inspiration for us all.

sidra1968 profile image
sidra1968

Wow!! So happy to hear this! I miss those kinds of trips! I noticed that the altitude effects were so different for everyone, it didn't seem to matter with age or fitness level (was at around 13,500 in a hotel in Peru)..and our treks were a bit higher. The teenagers fared worse than some of the older folks. I remember not being able to stay asleep at the high altitude and when we did, we woke up with a gasp. Was odd, but fun. Tried the Diamox pills, and it gave us such weird tingles in our feet and hands that I stopped taking it on day 3. Your post made my day!

Gimme profile image
Gimme in reply tosidra1968

I think it is generally acknowledged that the people who are most likely to get altitude sickness are fit young men than old plodders like me. They have the energy to be rushing up mountains too fast, when the general advice is to move more slowly as you go up and are adjusting to lower oxygen levels, to allow your heart to manage the extra demands.

Like you, I am not fond of diamox. Though it did help when I had pneumonia in Ladakh and didn't get any side effects. It was never intended to be used prophylactically, as it can mask the earlier symptoms of AMS, and is really there to help you get down to a safer elevation if you become sick.

Normally, I don't sleep too well high up either, but mostly because I keep waking to pee. I was so tired on this trip that I slept like a log. :)

Merryfield profile image
Merryfield

what a great story! good for you. inspiring to not let pmr and other issues get you down.

Orange_2022 profile image
Orange_2022

So interesting. Very glad you had such an amazing time and have come home feeling so well. Good for you for going for it!

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