This is surfing. The man on the wave is about to get barreled which means he’s not going to stand tall he will stay squatted then wave will go over his head and he will be in a tunnel of water. Many surfers wait a lifetime for this to happen. Once it does it’s the forever “go to” story. The real beauty here though is the guys paddling towards him are also stoked bcuz they’re getting to witness his fun so they feel good for it. I’m hoping my headstone says “ my stoke is yours and yours is mine”. Basically I’m as happy for your fun as I am my own. I love surfers love surfing, yes it’s hard to breath out there but I get help nowadays- all good🤙
Sunny San Diego/Sandyeggo: This is... - British Lung Foun...
British Lung Foundation
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